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‘A uniform for intellectuals’: the fashion legacy of Marimekko

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2018年3月15日
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‘A uniform for intellectuals’: the fashion legacy of Marimekko

Ireally don’t sell clothes, I sell a way of living.” No, these aren’t the words of fashion’s current tastemakers, the likes of outgoing Céline designer Phoebe Philo or, say, Gucci’s alchemist Alessandro Michele. Actually, they were spoken way back in 1963 by Armi Ratia, the founder of Marimekko. The Finnish design house has been brightening up ways of living with bold artistic prints since 1951, when Ratia transformed her husband’s oilcloth company into one producing cheerful, bold but elegant printed designs.

These days, Marimekko is the stuff of tea towels, crockery and bed linen. The bold Unikko flower print and crooked circles of Kivet cover cushions in houses also partial to the chairs of fellow Finn Alvar Aalto or Mies van der Rohe, providing the hand-drawn charm to offset the clean lines. But it began, as Ratia’s soundbite suggests, as an aesthetic to take in all aspects of customers’ lives. It spoke to a growing class of working women with a finely honed taste in design, looking for some colour in a post-war world. Ratia was certainly one of those and had Insta-perfect quotes way before the digital age. “One has to dream,” she said. “And one must stand out from the rest.”

The fashion part of the Marimekko universe is now poised for a comeback. Junya Watanabe collaborated with the brand for his spring/summer collection, using a monochrome Noppa print from 1954 and – in more affordable fashion news – the prints can currently be found on Clinique lipsticks and will soon form part of a collection with Uniqlo, to be released on 29 March. Using six different prints, they romp brightly across T-shirts, dresses, bags and shoes. Everything is under £35 and most items come with a heartwarming story. The Polle abstracted polka dots are inspired by the “hoof prints left by a plump small pony”, while the winningly named Kukkia Rakkaalle has the flowers “to tell you how to surprise your loved one”.

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